Meeting Fisherman and Snorkeling in the Northern Reefs

Today we drove to the northern tip of Belbadaob, where most of the best fishing is centered.  We went to meet with local fisherman and then to explore corals in the protected waters there.  The pressures on fish here are great, with 60% of fish that are locally caught being sold to export.  After declaring a three year moratorium on fishing in these waters a few years ago, the government recently declare a significant part of the area closed to all but tourism.  It is remote and undeveloped portion of Palau. Just 500 families live in the state.

We spent the first two hours there in the pouring rain, under a shelter talking with fishermen about the future of their livelihoods.  Kevin interpreted for us, and gently prodded the fishers to talk.  It is a hard life, and the conservation measures in place mean less income for them.  As of now there is no replacement or subsidy. Reform of the industry is complicated given the complex nature of the governance. but not impossible.  The Conservancy seems to be well connected here on the local and federal levels and is working with locals to create a sustainable industry.  Later in the day a man doing post-doctoral research on this very subject joined the conversation. A good connection for both of us!  

The skies finally lightened, and we motored out to see the reefs.  It was cold, rainy, and for some of us really hard to put fins and masks on and jump back into the water.  But it was worth it.  These were the most spectacular of all we have seen in our time here.  The reef fish were more abundant, the corals huge and of even greater variety. We saw the biggest giant clam on earth!  Also bumphead parrot fish, saddleback groupers, sweet lips, parrot fish, Picasso fish, Napoleon wrasse, several varieties of snappers, turtles and and an octopus.  The waters were flat, thankfully, and we were the only boats around which was  wonderful.