More about President Tommy Rememgesau

Hobnobbing with

You can listen to President Tommy Remengesau addressing the United Nations at the 69th UN General Assembly on September 25.  The topic is climate change and he's an eloquent spokesman.  The link, posted on his Facebook page, is here.

And here's an interview with the Huffington Post a few days later.

Photos Re-Posted

PhotosFromPalau (again)

Jellyfish Lake

More Corals and Sealife

Diving Deeper

On the Ground

Last Days on the Water

The links above should now connect to some of the wonderful photos taken during our trip, mostly by Carl Lobue, Trina Leberer and Connie Prickett.  A few teaser images below . . .

Photos from Palau, snorkeling and meeting in a green conference room

Thoughts

The opportunity is ripe in Palau.  This is a country that has the political support, the cultural inclination and deep connection to an older generation which understands the natural world as an essential part of the community's well being and way of life.  The Conservancy has worked here for nearly 25 years, and is in a strong position to support policy and direction, and to provide scientific, strategic and technical advice where needed.  At the same time, there are significant economic pressures on this tiny country: funding from the US is declining; prices are rising; there is a need to strengthen the private sector to be the dominant employer; tourism is poised to grow rapidly (six hotels in construction now); fish stocks are declining and the community is searching for a sustainable solution.  

If Palau can get this right, it will be a model for small developing island nations across Micronesia and beyond.  Similarly, if the Conservancy can't get this right here, where will we get it right?

Two notes to the Palau travelers:  Simplify and explain.  Everyone wants a pony.

Last Dive

We were so fortunate -- Fish N' Fins, the wonderful dive company that's been showing us around, found a boat to take us out on short notice, the sun came out and we had a glorious morning.  It was low tide so Kent took us to Lost Lake, which we had to enter swimming through an opening in the rock.  The shelf was near the surface, so the corals were so close we had to be cautious not to scrape ourselves.  The colors were vivid, and in some places huge sponges covered the surfaces with psychedelic purples and blues.  Kent then took us to two more spots in Neco Bay for short snorkels.  On the way back the clouds came out, the wind picked up and the temperature dropped.  No sooner did we get off the boat than the rain started to fall, and continued for the next two hours.  But by that time we were nestled into the dockside cafe with cappuccinos. 

Off to shower, pack and talk about business planning. 

Last morning in Palau

The time has gone so quickly here.  Everyone hopes the weather will hold today so that we can go out on the water one more time.  We have some important wrap up to do, and Jack, Dietmar, Trina and Kevin really want to take advantage of the time together to review their business plan.  It would be nice to see the local museum and aquarium. But the coral beckons. Who knows is we'll ever be back to this far away place?  Or if when we do come back whether it will be as simple and relatively unspoiled as it is now.

Palau is at a juncture, it seems to many of us.  Foreign companies are purchasing more hotels, including the one we're staying in,and the pressure to increase the tourism economy is very, very strong.  Can they do it without putting so much pressure on the natural resources they depend on, and that bring people here?  Palau has an opportunity to get this right. We want to help.  

Meeting Fisherman and Snorkeling in the Northern Reefs

Today we drove to the northern tip of Belbadaob, where most of the best fishing is centered.  We went to meet with local fisherman and then to explore corals in the protected waters there.  The pressures on fish here are great, with 60% of fish that are locally caught being sold to export.  After declaring a three year moratorium on fishing in these waters a few years ago, the government recently declare a significant part of the area closed to all but tourism.  It is remote and undeveloped portion of Palau. Just 500 families live in the state.

We spent the first two hours there in the pouring rain, under a shelter talking with fishermen about the future of their livelihoods.  Kevin interpreted for us, and gently prodded the fishers to talk.  It is a hard life, and the conservation measures in place mean less income for them.  As of now there is no replacement or subsidy. Reform of the industry is complicated given the complex nature of the governance. but not impossible.  The Conservancy seems to be well connected here on the local and federal levels and is working with locals to create a sustainable industry.  Later in the day a man doing post-doctoral research on this very subject joined the conversation. A good connection for both of us!  

The skies finally lightened, and we motored out to see the reefs.  It was cold, rainy, and for some of us really hard to put fins and masks on and jump back into the water.  But it was worth it.  These were the most spectacular of all we have seen in our time here.  The reef fish were more abundant, the corals huge and of even greater variety. We saw the biggest giant clam on earth!  Also bumphead parrot fish, saddleback groupers, sweet lips, parrot fish, Picasso fish, Napoleon wrasse, several varieties of snappers, turtles and and an octopus.  The waters were flat, thankfully, and we were the only boats around which was  wonderful.  

Snorkeling/Diving on Day Three (Saturday)

Today we went out toward the south western edge of the archipelago, where channels spill out into currents and deep water and fish aggregate.  Our first spot was Oolong (?) Channel.  The water was choppy and the sea swells added to the rough ride and the technical difficulty for those who were diving: Trina, Bill, Dietmar, Jan and Carl.  A dive master went down with them whil Kent, our guide from the tour company Fish and Fins, and Kevin went along snorkeling with Jack, Connie and me.  Snorkeling on more open water and in a fairly swift current was a totally different experience.  As Jack said, it felt like flying -- we were much further above the fish and the coral and could see a larger perspective of ocean life.  We also saw larger ocean life!  White tipped shark and grey reef shark and a huge hawksbill sea turtle were some of the highlights of that first trip.  The divers had an amazing experience too but they'll have to tell their own story.  

We motored up to German Channel for our second dive, and there we could see it wasn't only fish that were aggregating.  So many tour boats were at this spot we actually had to wait for a mooring, and the divers in our group remarked about how many people they saw under the water -- along with a manta ray, more sharks, a school of Jack fish, soldier fish and a yellowfin grouper fish.  The water was calmer and the current not such a factor.  The corals were enormous, and it was remarkable to watch one school of fish after another swim by.  

We got to a quiet protected area within the rock islands for lunch on the boat -- and a quick swim with masks to get a look at corals there -- before a short journey over to the island that houses Jellyfish Lake, one of five marine lakes in the Rock Islands inhabited by jellyfish.  These are an photosynthetic species that don't have need for a stinger; they live off of the nutrients on the bottom of the lake and the sun.  Because the islands are made of limestone, which is porous, the water is filtered albeit slowly.  It is quite an unusual experience to swim among what must be millions of these beautiful creatures, which are pale orange in color.  This is the only lake of the five open to the public, and it is a hugely popular destination.  The fee to swim there is high, and provides funding for other conservation work.  The locals look at this as a "sacrificial" spot that allows people to experience and appreciate the wonder, but protects the other marine lakes from human contact.  It's a conservation strategy that seems to be working.  

Photos will come ... Later

The sights are amazing and we've got photos, really we have!  Unfortunately the technology here isn't allowing us to post yet.  Patience . . . And thanks.

Snorkeling day two Friday)

No one is complaining about doing the same thing we did Wednesday!  We were out on the water for about six hours today, and saw more amazing sea life.  This was Connie's first day on and in the water and the shutter on her camera was flying like mad.  We began the day kayaking in the Rock Islands,which really look otherworldly, like some kind of Dr Seuss landscape. It was lovely paddling up close to these mushroom-like islands, formed of limestone and covered in dense vegetation.  The bases are eaten away by chitons and  other bio erroders.  Our guide spotted a cluster ofmoonjellyfish, the stingless kind, so we all abandoned kayaks for fins and masks and rolled into the water again to get a close look.

Each of the seascapes we've seen is different.  Kent, our guide, even admitted that you could pretty much drop anchor down anywhere and see great corals.  today the sun even popped out for a bit so the colors showed more brightly.  Among the marvels we saw today were, a huge spotted giant clam, red starfish, blue starfish, lion fish (native here) an entire family of damsel fish from millimeter sized to about 3"' feeding on a largish blue coral, farmer fish -- another amazing species of damsel fish.  Carl spotted several cleaner wrasse stations, an alligator fish, sea cucumbers.  , Dietmar and Jen saw a sea turtle, Trina caught sight of an octopus.  Our guides took us fo a break to a spot called the Milkyway, a unique shallow lagoon with white silt bottom, a kind of clay-like substance prized as an exfoliant and skin product.  We clowned around for awhile with mud on our faces, Carl carefully avoiding his beard and Bill going full bore with hair, face and scalp, looking more like a creature of the sea than a human.  Swimming in that quiet aquamarine blue water was another otherworldly experience.  

Our conversations out of the water are often peppered with "business", though when you are in the field it's clear were really talking about life and livelihoods.  Over lunch on the beach (another beautiful conference room), Trina talked us though the Micronesia business plan, it's keystone strategies of protected areas, capacity building and sustainable finance, in the focal areas of marine, terrestrial and climate change adaptation and disaster risk reduction.  How do we effectively communicate the work we're doing here in ways that are compelling to donors in the US? To the German government?  To internal partners in marketing and philanthropy on which international programs like this rely?  How do we prioritize work here that can be taken to scale globally and under what context, e.g, saving coral reefs, building sustainable fisheries, creating sustainable economies for developing island states?  And,importantly, working within communities to preserve the dignity and essential nature of the country.  That takes time, and is a challenging strategy to quantify internally and externally.  

Dinner with the President

That's right,  The President of Palau, Tommy Remengesau.., who spoke eloquently at the UN just last week about how conservation is the key to his country's future, Invited all of us to his home for dinner.  Trina assured us "he's chill" and dress code was casual.  His home backs onto a channel full of mangroves. It was an amazing night.  The First Lady and her cousins shopped for and cooked dinner, which was served outdoors under a tent (thankfully, since it poured rain off and on all night)  Everything was gluten free,  including the mangrove crabs they had hanging off the dock. Other dishes included a scrumptious taro root soup made with tomato and crab, beef tenderloin, grouper, and spicy shrimp.  He placed Trina at his left -- he is clearly terribly fond of her, as is the First Lady.  The President was warm, genial, and is as passionate about the environment as one can imagine.  We could not ask for a better champion and partner.  

Conservation on the Ground in Palau

This morning we learned about what it takes to get conservation in action in Palau.  It's an intricate web of governing bodies that must come to consensus about actions for the good of the communities, in hamlets, states and across the country.  To me it sounds as much about anthropology as politics, but at any rate it's not simple.  We spoke at length this morning with eight separate agencies and NGOs who partner with the Conservancy to enable the good work that gets done here.  Thoughtful, impressive, forward looking and smart.  This is an impressive collaboration!  

In the afternoon we drove back to Melekeok  to see the Ngardok Preserve.  We were met by the staff who, over a snak of fresh cocoanut milk, briefed us on their activities, which include warer resource restoration on a fresh water lake, vegetative regrowth and forest plot measurement, invasive species management, fire mapping and awareness, erosion control, and tree specimen sampling.  A research fellow from the USFS (who hails from upper New York State) has been working with the Preserve for several months and discovered a new tree species that's endemic to Palau.  After hiking around in the tropical forest and savannah for about an hour, we piled back into cars to caravan over the Melekeok's Bai, the traditional men's house where Chiefs of the 12 states of Palau have gathered in council for centuries.  Although not practiced today as it was when wars were fought and territory negotiated, the Chiefs are still a valued part of the traditional culture and the governing structure of Palau.  

That we had to walk through a field of mud to get there only added to the authenticity of the experience.  Kudos to Bill, Dietmar and Carl for pushing Jack's rental car out of the mud.  

A typhoon?

If not that then a doozy of a storm rolled through tonight during the Independence Day Celebration ceremonies.  Having already decided to leave early, we dashed through pelting rain to our cars, everyone soaked through to the skin.  We started back and  Carl estimated that during the 50 minute-or-so drive from the Capitol to Koror about 4" of rain fell.  Our party recouped at an Indian restaurant where we toasted the driving prowess of Jack And Trina.  Relieved to hear that Connie arrived safely.  

Camping this week looks extremely doubtful

First snorkeling day

It's very hard to put into words the beauty and wonder of all we saw today, grey and rainy as it was.  We traveled by boat through the Rock Islands to quiet lagoons where corals thrive.  The lush greenery surrounded these still clear waters.  Our guide said the first stop was where Jurassic Park was filmed, and that seemed plausible to me.  The variety of coral species numbered over one hundred in just one lagoon.  We watched an stonishing number of beautiful fish dart in and out and around.  Places of quiet deep beauty.  I'm without a camera so we'll have to wait for posts from my colleagues -- some amazing photographs!  And this is just day one.

The birds are amazing too -- I heard a kingbird, and saw tropical birds (the species, not the category).  I will try to keep a count to share with my colleague EJ.  

Terrific conversations, too, about the work, what we'doing here and why it's so important, and how can we best talk about it.  No PowerPoint, WebExes or dial in numbers for these meetings.  

This is Palau

Forecast is rainy, but the island is lush and beautiful.  Snorkeling this morning.  Fireworks with thePresident tonight.  

4.5 hours in Guam

Arrive in Guam after 4 hour flight.  12:30.  Wander through Customs.  Ask various airport personnel for recommendations about what do do on layover.  Corral and bargin (unsuccessfully) with taxi dispatcher for driver to tak three people and their carry on luggage around the island for 3 hours.  1:00.  Stop at Two Lovers Point, which seems to be a major tourist attraction, where scads of young people, many from Japan, come to look out from the cliff from which two Spanish lovers hurled themselves some centuries ago.  Rain and dark skies from the tropical depression add to the ambiance but not to the view.  1:20 cab driver takes us to "the strip" where the hotels and shopping malls are.  1:45. We find a restaurant on the beach, which is mostly a bar but serves food. Beers from US and Japan.  Fish, oddly, is mostly flown in (we had salmon and tilapia?!), but the tuna sashimi was very good and local.  Great breeze and view. 2:30.  Driver excuses himself to pick up child from school.  Leaves business card so we can contact him if we get concerned about time and location.  3:20. E get concerned and pick up card -- no phone number listed.  3:30.  Driver returns!  takes us through town and to a park to see the Latte Rocks, centuries old formations that may have been used as pillars for ceremonial structures.  4:30. Traffic builds and cab driver, Manny, returns us to airport.  Presents us with rice balls, a discount on the trip, and a promise to take us around the island next time, and to teat us to dinner at his home.  

This is a big planet

tJust saying.  Carl, Bill and I are about to start our second day in an airplane. Actually, about half of today will be spent an airport as we have a four hour layover in Guam.  But our overnight stop in Tokyo at least give s some of us chance for sleep.  Bill is bummed that the great sushi place at the airport is behind security, but maybe he'll splurge on sushi for breakfast?  The hotel is spotless and comfortable, with a deep soaking tub in the bath that helped soak some stiff joints after the 13hour flight.  

Departing Sunday

What an incredible opportunity -- to travel to Palau with colleagues from The Nature Conservancy in New York to learn about the work the Conservancy is doing in that part of the world!  Bill Ulfelder, Executive Director of the Conservancy in NY, Carl Lobue, Senior Marine Scientist in Long Island, Connie Prickett, Director of Communications in the Adirondacks and me, Karen Raven, Deputy Director of Philanthropy in NY will be in Palau for about a week exploring marine protected areas, coral reefs and meeting with partner organizations and local leaders.  While there we will kayak around the Rock Islands, snorkel and dive in Jellyfish Lake, explore the Northern Reefs. 

Palau is one of the most ecologically diverse places on the planet, supporting over 400 coral species, and nearly 1,300 varieties of reef fish.  Growing tourism and related development, aggressive fishing and unsustainable forest practices threaten not only this archipelago but all of Micronesia.  The Conservancy has worked here with community leaders and government agencies for over 20 years to bridge the gap between traditional and modern approaches to conservation.  We need to do more.

This will be an unforgettable adventure.  My fellow travelers and I hope to record my impressions and experiences here to share with colleagues and friends back home.  Connectivity will be very spotty so bear with us.  We look forward to sharing stories, pictures and what we learn.